After some waiting, I’m leaving Carloforte too. The weather forecast, although not perfect, seems finally acceptable.
200 nautical miles, on a straight line, separate me from Marettimo and from Sicily. In between, the most absolute nothing if not the mythical Skerki Bank with its 50-cm deep Keith Point (but this is another story).
A handful of years ago my Spanish friend and reference Quico Taronjí shipwrecked in this stretch of sea with his kayak trimaran during his journey from Cádiz to Istanbul. I have his project, Aislado, and his book that I highly recommend in mind. I think of you so much, Quico…
Not in many places in the world you can watch an artistic performance on the rocks by the seaside on a Sunday morning of a touristic place.
In Calasetta, though, Sant’Antioco Island, you can. The Fondazione MACC (Contemporary Art Museum of Calasetta) and its sparkling director Efisio Carbone made it possible indeed. While Francesca Romana Motzo was playing her clarino, unseen, from within a World War II bunker, Paulina Herrera Letelier‘s weaving piece was glittering mysteriously against the rocks. The Mangiabarche (boat-eater) lighthouse was controlling it all from the back, and for a moment magic happened.
About to leave to Carloforte, just in front of this place, a few miles away.
In Sant’Antioco there are two totally different municipalities: Sant’Antioco and Calasetta. In Sant’Antioco we met some truly special people, Barbara and Simona from Cooperativa Sociale Le Api, which has nothing to do with honey! These girls and their colleagues work on the education of disabled people, with a really human approach. Furthermore, the province of Sulcis Iglesiente, to which Sant’Antioco belongs, is the poorest province in Italy and one with a way higher percentage of genetical diseases than the world average, clearly – I say that – because of the presence of mines and heavy factories since decades now. Yet these guys are fighting and made it to create such an activity that works nicely for both the “patients” and the employees, who are paid for their job and happy.
As a side project, the Associazione Le Rondini “NEW” just equipped the first beach in Sardinia where people with serious motion diseases can even “swim” in the sea!
In Calasetta, on the other hand, I will meet on Saturday the guys from the Fondazione MACC, an incredible contemporary arts museum for such a small place as Calasetta. An artist from Chile and one from Sardinia are secretly preparing a live performance in between geology, weaving, and music…
Even though it started well, with more than 100 nautical miles on the first day, that is, more than half the overall distance, it took us two and a half more days to cover the rest. We had really rough seas, a 1-hour break for I was too tired, and more than 24 hours going upwind against a dreary Mistral getting stronger every minute.
Yet here we are in Sant’Antioco, the voyage isn’t over. Amunì!