#31,32,33 Venetian Lagoon – The end of the voyage

When I chose Venice as the final island of my journey, I didn’t know what to expect. I was frightened by how people describe it, a city turned into an amusement park which lost almost completely its identity.
My interest in Venice began to change when I came across my “deus ex machina” Marco (there were at least three “dii ex machina” in this adventure, all unforgettable), a wonderful, funny, crazy! guy with a huge sense of welcoming, who after a simple phone call had already arranged a dozen meetings with very interesting people. The interest grew even more when I discovered – and I was ashamed of my ignorance – that all the incredible Croatian coast, filled with thousands of islands, was all part of the Serenissima (the Venice Republic) in its time. Slowly the image of Venice as mistress of the seas and of the trades was building up in my mind, and I thought its legacy had to be still visible in the places and in the people too.

These five days in Venice have further stirred my ideas. In the first place, Venice doesn’t exist. Venice is the Lagoon. The Lagoon is an archipelago. And none of its islands makes sense by itself, extracted from the unique context of the Lagoon. The Venetians exist, they are smiling people, open towards each other and towards change, they are active. And then they’re island people, just like the others I’ve met! They could as well come from the South of Italy. And they’re scattered all over the Lagoon.

Maybe it’s the language – because when they speak dialect, and they speak it very much, I do not understand practically anything – maybe it’s because I come from a whole different part of Italy, but in the Lagoon I often felt like in a foreign country. Everything was new, all unknown, civic and community rules. Big time!

Davide had a great merit in changing my understanding of Venice.On his boat, half broken and beautiful, strictly made of wood, he took us to the cemetery. Yes, the cemetery. Which is an island, named San Michele. After waiting for a boat to dump the casket and walking between the graves suddenly a door opened, one from about a thousand years ago, and… a vineyard, in front of us there was a vineyard. Now, Davide is part of an association called “The Lagoon in the glass, the recovered vineyards”; they indeed recover small vineyards scattered across the Lagoon and produce wine, of course a little homemade, but what’s interesting is that they don’t sell it and rather prefer to drink it among Venetians under some pergonal on Sundays.
Then we went to discover the island of Sant’Erasmo, called the “garden of Venice” and the farm Da Gino e Inda owned by Michele and Giorgia. A couple who love working in the fields and recovering abused animals, and who love producing, children and vegetables. Fighting stubbornly against burocracy, which is an Italian plague. People so warm-hearted I honestly have known a few…

Then the story of La Certosa, another island. Ex-Military, ex-Industrial island abandoned for decades at only a few hundred meters from Venice. There Alberto Sonino, former world champion of sailing, oceanic sailor and much more, channeled passion and knowledge made during a life around the world with a purpose: give back an abandoned place to the city making it the yachting pole of the Lagoon. The fact is that today, after more than ten years, at La Certosa there is a cool Marina with a cute little hotel, an electric boat rental to explore Lagoon with no emissions, there are shipwrights building or restoring wooden boats, international conferences are held on the future of yachting, and so on. The project is called Vento Di Venezia, and Alberto is a person of extraordinary intelligence, the intelligence of those who are able to dream big and to achieve them dreams. Without even talking too much.

Finally two other formidable Venetian realities. The first is the “voga” (rowing), which for many here is a religion and is seen as a whole art which includes the construction of boats, peculiar as the lagoon where they sail. And so I met another great guy, Pietro Meneghin, whose job is “rémer”, that is, an artisan crafting oars and “fórcole” (the pieces where oars are places, which are actually objects of an impressive plastic beauty, worth to be exposed and admires for hours), and whose passion is rowing. We have heard him talk about Venice and his very delicate future, which should arise from a slow reinterpretation of the Lagoon, based on rowing or sailing, and from the regulation of a completely chaotic and sometimes harmful boat traffic that makes it one of the world’s most wavy seas.
The second reality is Cristina‘s splendid Mare di Carta bookshop (a sea of paper), one of the four bookshops about the sea in Italy. Her place is much more than a book shope: in Venice, it is a meeting point for the sea lovers and for the Venetians in general, a place where meeting up for an aperitivo, and a place where talking about healthy politics and the future is possible. Cristina is a volcano, a freediver and an unparalleled librarian, who made me think of other volcanoes, other freedivers, other booksellers I met during these months.

So here end islands. There aren’t anymore, even if I wished to. I’ve stripped maribelle of her vestments and I’m going to hide for a while in the island that I feel most as mine, Ustica.

The voyage is threfore over but not 33 Isole, which in fact is just in its early days. Now I wish I can return the people I have met, who are heroes to me, at least part of what they have given to me. The work on the documentary about the voyage and the people is about to start. It’ll take time, but… stay tuned!

 


Posted on: 28.Aug.2018   Leave a comment

#11 Ischia – Departure

What should I say about Ischia… I leave bewitched by its people, its accent, its Bay of Cartaromana, its rough mountain and its agricultural land terracing still quite cultivated, mostly with grapes.

An incredible welcome it was, designed by the deus ex machina Luciana Morgera!
Thank you very much to Simone Verde for being the perfect guide with wisdom and kindness and for taking me through the traffic, alas, of the 70000 souls and 6 municipalities of the island.
To Nino from Ischia Corbaro Park, overflowing of energy and passion for its goats and guests who he cuddles with his delicious cuisine (to me he offered a couple of glasses of white wine and a goat ricotta tart at 10 in the morning!).
To the precious sisters Francesca Jantò Castagna and Martina Jantò Castagna, champions of reception and passion for Ischia from the top of the Paradise Relais Villa Jantò – Ischia, a true paradise created from the rubble of the 21st August, 2017 earthquake.
Thank you, Luciana Cervera, from the old and delicious Taverna Antonio Ischia, for the food, the wine, and the stories.
And then to the legendary, unreachable, unforgettable Cenzino Di Meglio (and to Laura, his future wife, who cooked me a proper and exquisite “Coniglio all’ischitana”), whose name is actually Pietro, whose good spirits with that campanian accent have bewitched me. And who moved me explaining me all about the Festa A Mare Negli Scogli Di Sant’anna, of which he is the artistic director. He is also the artistic director of the Teatro Polifunzionale Ischia, a reality deserving the deepest respect for the tenacity with which it was conceived and for the quality of the experimental projects that it carries on, necessary to defeat the talk/reality show shitty “culture” that sedate the youngest – and not only – generations. And thanks also to Enzo and Luigi from the theatre, who told me the details with so much light in their eyes.
And thanks very much to Francesco Buono from the Lega Navale Isola d’Ischia for the hospitality in the absurd and charming port of Ischia, a former volcanic lake suffering from high water like Venice, and for the chat inside a former wine bottling room.
Thank you too, one more time, Dario Della Vecchia for the most appreciated hospitality at Hotel Villa Maria*** – Ischia.
And finally Pasquale RaicaldoMiro Iacono and all those I’ve surely forgotten!

And now we turn the page, in this silent dawn, and the bow is pointed to Ventotene!

 

Posted on: 18.May.2018   Leave a comment

#4 Lipari – What a night!

Arrivi sulla prossima isola e ricevi un benvenuto perfetto da amici appena incontrati. Magia eoliana.
Grazie ai camminatori poeti di Associazione Nesos – trekking & natura, al surreale Luis Mazza e alla dolcissima Genny di Al numero zero, Lipari e ai professionalissimi quanto calorosi Marco e Luigi di Eol.Mare Marina Resort.
E alla mitica Sara!!!

You reach the next island and you get a perfect welcome from friends you just met. Aeolian magic. Thank you to the hiking poets from Associazione Nesos – trekking & natura, to the surreal Luis Mazza and sweet Genny of Al numero zero, Lipari and to the as professional as warm Marco and Luigi fromEol.Mare Marina Resort.
And to the mythical Sara!!!

 

Posted on: 24.Apr.2018   Leave a comment